In the lexicon of menswear, few terms are as frequently used—and misused—as “Bespoke” and “Made-to-Measure” (MTM). For the uninitiated gentleman walking into a tailoring house, the distinction can seem blurry. Both involve measurements, both result in a suit that fits better than off-the-rack, and both allow for fabric selection. However, technically and philosophically, they are two very different disciplines.
At DuanTailor, transparency is part of our craft. We believe that an informed client is a satisfied client. Before you commission your next garment, it is essential to understand exactly what goes into the construction of your suit, so you can make the choice that best fits your body type, timeline, and budget.
Made-to-Measure (MTM): Efficiency Meets Fit
Think of Made-to-Measure as the bridge between ready-to-wear and bespoke. In this process, the tailor starts with a pre-existing pattern (a “block”) that is closest to your size—say, a size 40 Regular. They then modify this block based on your measurements. If your arms are longer, they lengthen the sleeve. If your waist is narrower, they taper the jacket.
MTM is an excellent choice for men who have relatively standard proportions but want a superior fit and the freedom to choose their own fabric. It is generally faster to produce and more cost-effective. At our showroom, our made-to-measure suits are crafted with high precision, offering a vast improvement over anything you can buy in a department store.
Bespoke: The Art of Limitless Creation
The word “bespoke” comes from the verb “to bespeak,” meaning to speak for something. In this process, nothing exists until you ask for it. There are no pre-existing blocks. The cutter drafts a brand-new pattern from scratch, exclusively for you, based on a comprehensive set of anatomical measurements.
This is the holy grail of tailoring. It accounts for the subtle nuances of your body that a standard block cannot catch: a shoulder that is slightly lower than the other, a curvature of the spine, or a prominent athletic chest. If you are searching for the best tailor in Ho Chi Minh City for a truly one-of-a-kind garment, bespoke is the answer.
The hallmark of bespoke is the “baste fitting.” This is an intermediate stage where the suit is loosely stitched together with white basting thread. You try it on, and the tailor rips seams apart and re-pins them directly on your body. It is a sculptural process, molding the cloth to your form in real-time.
Which One Is Right for You?
The choice between Bespoke and MTM often comes down to three factors: Time, Body Shape, and Detail.
- Time: MTM is faster. If you are in Saigon for a short trip, MTM can be delivered swiftly without the need for multiple intermediate fittings. Bespoke requires more patience and involvement.
- Body Shape: If you have an athletic build with a significant drop (broad shoulders, narrow waist) or distinct asymmetry, Bespoke is highly recommended to achieve a flawless silhouette.
- Detail: With Bespoke, customization is limitless. You can dictate the width of the lapel to the millimeter, the angle of the pockets, or the height of the gorge. With MTM, you are working within the parameters of the house style.
Conclusion
Whether you choose the efficiency of Made-to-Measure or the artistry of Bespoke, the team at DuanTailor is committed to one standard: excellence. We use the same premium fabrics and the same skilled hands for both services. Our goal is to ensure that when you walk out of our door, you are wearing not just a suit, but a statement of confidence.
